Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak Climbing

  • Destination
  • Region
  • Duration
    16 Days
  • Transportation
  • Max Height
  • Activities
  • Trip Grade
  • Accomodation
  • Group Size
    Mini. 1 Pax
  • Start / End Point
    Lukla to Lukla
  • Meals
  • Best Season
    Sep-Nov & Mar-May

Trip Overview

Climbing a snowy mountain is a legendary activity to do at least once in a lifetime. However, climbing lofty peaks like Everest (8848.86 m) is not a cup of tea. This doesn’t mean that people can’t quench their hunger for leaving footprints on the summit of the snow-capped mountain. It is possible. If not expedition, try peak climbing in Nepal. Island Peak Climbing is an ideal mountain to start your climbing adventure. The mountain located adjacent to the Lhotse massif in the Everest region of Nepal offers the quintessential mountaineering experience.

Island Peak Climbing – An Ideal Mountain for Novice to Veteran Climbers

The expedition is the most challenging style of mountaineering. However, Peak Climbing is moderate in comparison to the expedition. Normally, the expedition is for mountains above 7000 m in height and peak climbing is for mountains below 7000 m. But some of the technical mountains below 7000 m also require the expedition style of climbing, for example, Amadablam Expedition.

Imja Tse or Island Peak

The Island Peak has another local name as well. It is Imja Tse. However, the most popular name of the mountain is Island Peak. It was named by a team of British climbers back in 1953. The location of the mountain seems to be in the middle of mountains resembling an island. To confirm this fact, view the mountain from Dingboche. It exactly looks like it. Locals gave the name Imja Tse in 1983. Don’t get confused about its name. Either of these names is correct for the mountain.

Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climbing (6191 m)

Most of the itineraries of Island Peak Climbing consist of the Everest Base Camp Trek trip as well. Moreover, it is rewarding from the attraction point of view and acclimatization point of view. Climbers follow the itinerary of Everest Base Camp Trek until they return from the base camp up to Dingboche. For more information about the ascent please check our EBC Trek package.

Get two outstanding memories in one single adventure. One is the chance to leave footprints at the base camp of the world’s tallest mountain Mt. Everest. The other one is the summit of Island Peak (6191 m).

Acclimatization Breaks

Three days of acclimatization is the utmost necessity for climbing. Therefore, the Island Peak Itinerary consists of three acclimatization exercises. The first acclimatization is at Namche Bazaar. Climbers climb to the top of Hotel Everest View (3800 m) and return to Namche for overnight sleep. The second acclimatization is at Dingboche Village where climbers climb Nagarshan Hill (5100 m). Finally, the acclimatization takes place at the Chhukung Valley and Island Peak Base Camp.

The mantra of effective acclimatization is to hike in high-altitude places and rest in low-altitude places.

Location of Island Peak

The Island Peak is the jewel of peak climbing activity destination of the Khumbu region of Nepal. Among three popular peaks, Island Peak is the most famous one. The other two famous peak-climbing mountains are Lobuche Peak and Mera Peak. The extended ridge line of Lhotse Shar is the Island Peak. It is nearby the Chhukung Valley north of Dingboche Village. The trail to Island Peak Base Camp is the branch of Everest Base Camp Trek. Therefore, people do the EBC Trek as well during this adventure. Thus, climbers can save on the separate trip cost of Everest Base Camp Trekking.

Climbing Route of Island Peak

While climbing Island Peak, climbers have to go through short climbing training. After a short briefing climbers can attempt to climb the mountain. Therefore, it is possible for novice first-timers as well. Once the climbers reach the Island Peak Base Camp (5087 m), the Sherpa team prepares for the climbing. The base camp of Island Peak is also called Pareshaya Grab. Some climbers start their summit push from base camp while some do it from high camp (5600 m) as well. If you start climbing from high camp, it helps a lot during the summit push. However, at high camps, there is a high chance of scarcity of drinking water and difficulty in getting adequate sleep.

Crevasses are the hassles of climbing. The Island Peak Climbing route has very dangerous crevasses. However, the team Sherpa upon the request of the Nepal Mountaineering Association has installed a fixed aluminum ladder. So, it eases climbers.

From high camp, after the brief hiking, the fixed rope line starts. The final stretch is challenging. Climbers have to climb steeply on the narrow ridge line and gain about 100 meters. However, the view of mountains from the top of the Island peak is rewarding.

Can I See Mount Everest from the top of Island Peak ?

No, you can’t see Mount Everest from the top of the Island Peak. The distance between Island Peak and Mount Everest is just 10 kilometers. However, you will not be able to get the sight of the world’s tallest mountain Mt. Everest. The gigantic Lhotse mountain comes between Island Peak and Mountain Everest.

Best Time to do Peak Climbing

Nepal’s peak trekking seasons are spring and autumn. For Island Peak Climbing, spring is the most suitable time. Therefore, contact our travel planners to book your climbing adventure in Nepal. Khumbu’s most famous peak the Island Peak (6091 m) awaits you.

Do I need special training for peak climbing?

Well, you don’t need any kind of special training for peak climbing. However, the expedition of mountains above 7000 m requires mountaineering training. As for the trekking peaks, even a novice climber can climb with the help of a good Sherpa team. However, it doesn’t mean that you don’t need to be in perfect physical condition. Yes, top-notch physical fitness is the utmost necessity. Be in proper shape and do lots of cardio exercises before attempting to climb the mountain.

The team of Sherpa will provide basic training before climbing. The knowledge of gears, handling fixed rope, and walking with crampons are fundamentals of climbing. Don’t worry as the team of Sherpa from Nepal High Trek & Expedition are Everest Summiteers. They will prepare you for an outstanding climbing adventure. Except for the Island Peak, there are some popular trekking climbing in the Everest region as Mera Peak Climbing, Labuche Climbing, Pokalte Peak, and Amadablam climbing too.

Details Itinerary

We complete our custom formalities at the Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Afterward, there is a Nepal High Trek & Expedition representative waiting for us at the gate who will take us to our hotel. We can then spend the rest of the day taking rest. In the evening, we get to try Nepalese cuisine at a welcome dinner hosted by Nepal High Trek. Overnight in Kathmandu.

After breakfast, we will be taken to the domestic terminal of TIA for an early morning flight to Lukla. After a flying above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. Upon our arrival at Lukla, we meet our other crew members and after some packing and arrangements, we start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. However, if interested in additional activities, we can take a side trip to a nearby monastery. Overnight in Phakding.

The second day of the Everest Base Camp via Island peak climbing takes you from the various Sherpa village of Phakding to Namche Bazaar. Aling the trail you will pass the Toktok village, Benkar village, Monjo village, and the main hub of Sagarmatha National Park. Besides Jorsale village is the last teahouse that is better to have lunch at Jorsalle. After lunch, the trail goes through the Dudhkoshi River for around 45 minutes to reach the Hillary Suspension bridge. When you crossed the Hillary suspension bridge the trail goes ascent to Namche bazaar and it takes approximately 2 hrs. Namche Bazaar is a massive Himalayan city where you can get most of the amenities around the Namche Bazaar. It lies at 3440m above sea level and is where you can spend a beautiful time with thrilling views of mountains.


This is the day set aside for acclimatization. Health experts recommend that we stay active and move around even during the rest day instead of being idle. There are a few options set aside for this day. We can either stroll around Namche’s quaint villages or come in contact with the Sherpa people and their rich culture, or we can hike up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoy an up-close view of the mighty Everest. While in the Namche village or upon returning from the hike to the Everest View Hotel, trekkers may also visit the local museum containing exhibits displaying the area’s native flora and fauna as well as the history of the Mount Everest region.For trekkers who want to hike for a little longer, a hike to Khumjung village (5-6 hours) may also be an option. While in the village we can visit the Edmund Hillary School and Khumjung Monastery (a monastery famous for housing the head of the Yeti!). Overnight in Namche Bazaar.

With the Himalayas as its backdrop, the monastery in Tengboche is in an excellent location. We visit the monastery in the morning and enjoy taking pictures of the monastery and the amazing landscape. We descend for about half an hour through a forest before crossing a river. Next, we trek uphill and notice that as we climb higher, the landscape becomes drier. We walk past a traditional Sherpa village of Pangboche before reaching Pheriche, a beautiful village located on a riverside. Here, we will also see a small helipad that is used for helicopter rescues during emergencies. We may even take a class with a mountain specialist in a medical clinic at Pheriche. Overnight in Pheriche.

With the Himalayas as its backdrop, the monastery in Tengboche is in an excellent location. We visit the monastery in the morning and enjoy taking pictures of the monastery and the amazing landscape. We descend for about half an hour through a forest before crossing a river. Next, we trek uphill and notice that as we climb higher, the landscape becomes drier. We walk past a traditional Sherpa village of Pangboche before reaching Pheriche, a beautiful village located on a riverside. Here, we will also see a small helipad that is used for helicopter rescues during emergencies. We may even take a class with a mountain specialist in a medical clinic at Pheriche. Overnight in Pheriche.

After breakfast, we start with an easy walk towards Dugla. Next, we trek up the steep terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, and then pass through the boulder-strewn slopes as we ascend Chupki Lhara where we find an array of stones with prayer flags used as memorials to Scott Fischer (American mountaineer) and 10-time Everest submitter Babu Chiri Sherpa (Nepalese mountain guide) who perished on a mission to climb Everest. The trail then continues to the Khumbu Glacier moraine and we find ourselves facing several great peaks – Khumbutse, Lingtren, Pumori and Mahalangur Himal. Overnight in Lobuche.

We take the trail to Everest Base Camp through the once vast Gorak Shep Lake. Continuing straight ahead, we come across the Indian army mountaineers’ memorials. The path from here can be misleading; hence it is important that we follow our lead Sherpa diligently. The walk is strenuous due to thin air in the high altitude. We pass through rocky dunes, moraine, and streams before reaching the Everest Base Camp. Upon reaching the Everest Base Camp, we see tents of mountaineers that stand out in bright colors against the monotony of gray surroundings (especially in the spring). Nuptse, Khumbuste, and Pumori are the mountains we can view from the base camp. We get back to Gorak Shep for a good night’s rest. Overnight in Gorak Shep.

We prepare for an early morning departure, amid pre-dawn darkness and cold temperatures (-10 to -14 C). Plus, there is always the potential for chilly winds which are quite common. Familiar peaks such as Lingtren, Khumbutse, and Changtse tower to the east even as Everest begins to reveal itself. But, it is upon reaching Kala Patthar that we get to see360 degree up-close and formidable views of Mt. Everest. We take pictures, enjoy the magnificent mountain panorama, and then return back to Lobuche for a good night’s rest. Overnight in Lobuche.

After breakfast, we trek via Khumbu Glacier to Kongma La Base Camp (5,000m/16,404ft). The ascent to Kongma La pass is the most difficult part of our trek today. In the Kongma La, we see cairn wrapped in prayer flags to mark the pass. Then we descend gradually to Imja Khola valley, followed by another descent to Chhukung, a small summer settlement. After reaching Chhukung we will also check our equipment in order to get ready for our ultimate climb. Overnight in Chhukung.

The trek to Island Peak Base Camp is on a fairly steep trail. First, we climb south then turn east to the main line of the valley. We then walk on a winding path below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Next, we continue walking on a pleasant trail along a streamside. The route to the Amphu Labtsa lies to the southeast. A crisscross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island Peak. Overnight at Island Peak Base Camp.

We begin our pre-climb training today after breakfast. Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the proper ways of using climbing gears such as the ice ax climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Island Peak Climbing, we strongly believe that some training experience will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit as well as to fully enjoy the experience. We can spend the rest of the day hiking to high camp and back or resting for the next day’s climb. Overnight at the base camp.

We wake up early today at around 12 to 1 am and have our breakfast before beginning our climb. It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the highlands might become a barrier for a successful summit. The trail moves up beyond the base camp for several hundred meters before striking off the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As we climb up the hill, we will see that the slope narrows and the trail enters a steep rock channel. We climb the rock gully. This is not difficult, but there are several short rock steps to climb before we emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. The guides will fix a rope when required. A steep snow slope leads us onto the summit ridge. Both fixed rope and man rope will be used during the climb for safety. We use fixed rope after successfully climbing on rock. The length of the rope will usually be 350 m. However, the length depends on the time of the season and the crevasses.There are two newly formed crevasses which are approximately 3 and 4 meters long. We will be using ladders to cross them. After enjoying the summit views and taking pictures, we descend all the way to Island Peak Base Camp where some of our crew are waiting for us. We celebrate on our successful Island Peak climb.

Today’s walk will be a much easier as we descend to the lower altitudes. Following the same route back through the wide valley of Khumbu Khola, we pass through the beautiful Sherpa villages, Orsho and Shomare. We can also take a different trail to visit the Gompa in Upper Pangboche, which is believed to be the oldest in the Khumbu region or take the regular trail to reach Pangboche. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range to the south and the Imja Tse river flowing through the wide fertile valley.

From Pangboche we retrace our steps down to the Imja Khola and up through the forest to Tengboche. If interested, we can also visit nuns at the Tengboche monastery. After lunch at Tengboche, we continue through the hillside blanketed by rhododendron and juniper trees. After crossing the bridge over the Dudh Koshi River, our trail follows the Dudh Koshi gorge descending rapidly through the pine forests before reaching Sansa. We keep a lookout for wildlife such as mountain goats, snow leopards, colorful pheasants, etc., while passing through the forest. After passing a Chorten, we reach the army camp at Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.

The trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk cautiously as our shaky legs continuously battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries, the trail becomes more level and natural. After our arrival in Lukla, we stretch those sore legs and recall the experiences of the last couple of weeks. Overnight in Lukla.

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenirs shopping or sightseeing. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Island peak. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Your adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. A representative from Nepal High Trek& Expedition will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home you’ll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal.

Cost Includes:

  • Airport pickups and drops in a private vehicle
  • Two-night hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu- Lukla -Kathmandu)
  • English-speaking mountain guide including his salary, meals, accommodation & insurance.
  • Professional climbing guide including his salary, meals, accommodation & insurance.
  • Personal porter including his salary, meals, accommodation & insurance.
  • Down jacket and sleeping bag (to be returned after trip completion)
  • All necessary paperwork; trekking permits. Khumbu entrance fee and Island Peak climbing permit
  • Good quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
  • Tea or coffee during the trek
  • Tea house accommodation throughout the trek.
  • Group mountaineering (climbing) equipment
  • Farewell Dinner.

COST Excludes:

  • Nepalese visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15 kg of luggage, the cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, or early return from the mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu (and also in the case of early return from the mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extended
  • Tips for guides and porters

Island Peak Climbing Route Map

Island Peak Climbing Route Map

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