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Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak Climbing

  • Destination
    Nepal
  • Region
    Everest
  • Duration
    16 Days
  • Transportation
    Flight
  • Max Height
    6476m.
  • Activities
    Trekking/Climbing
  • Trip Grade
    Adventure
  • Accomodation
    Tea House/Camping
  • Group Size
    Mini. 1 Pax
  • Best Season
    Sep-Dec & Mar-May
  • Meals
    B.L.D.
  • Start / End Point
    Lukla to Lukla

Trip Overview

Peak Climbing is the major adventure activity to do in Nepal. The climbing of mountains above 6000 m requires Climbing Permits. However, for mountains below 6000 m, Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) provides peak climbing permits. It doesn’t apply to some of the smaller mountains because of technical difficulties. For example, Mt. Amadablam (6812 m) and Mt. Lobuche West (6145 m) require an expedition permit. These two mountains are not trekking peaks. Among the mountains recognized by NMA for peak climbing, Mera Peak is the highest one. Therefore, Mera Peak Climbing in Nepal is adventurous and legendary climbing activity.

Mera Peak is in the Barun region of the Sankhuwasabha district. Even though the mountain is part of Mahalangur Himalayan range, the route to its base camp is completely different from regular Everest region trekking. It separates from Lukla. With an altitude of 6476 m, the peak stands firmly as the highest permitted trekking peak in Nepal.

Mera Peak Climbing Facts & History

In the early 50’s, a team of British expeditions explored the region for the first time. The team included legendary climbers like Tenzing Norgay, George Lowe, Shipton, and Sir Edmund Hillary. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing climbed the mountain for the first time back in 1953. The Nepalese Trekking industry is highly indebted to Jimmy Roberts. He is the one who established the commercial trekking industry in Nepal. Therefore, Nepal Government has awarded him the Sagarmatha National Award posthumously.

Trekking to Mera Peak Base Camp

7 days of walking on the trail take trekkers to Khare. Climbers have to traverse via places like Paiya, Pangkonmga, Chhatra Khola, Kothe, and Thaknak. The trekking route is very beautiful and tranquil. Most of the trekking happens in the Upper Khumbu area. However, the route of Mera Peak Climbing is in the alternative region. The locale is close to the Makalu Baruntse area. Green lush forests and river valleys offer quintessential walking moments.

Khare Acclimatization and Climbing Training

Once the climbers reach Khare, Sherpa guides provide the climbing training. You will have to attend the briefing and climbing training session. Climbing Mt. Mera is considered easy in comparison to other trekking peaks climbing. However, you need to be aware of the route and technique. There are many crevasses on the climbing route. Always heed the instructions of the guide. During acclimatization, explore the surrounding area and get used to the altitude as well as the atmosphere.

Climbing Route for Mera Peak Climbing

After acclimatization and short training in Khare, climbers head towards Mera High Camp. The ascent takes from this camp. The regular route from the northern side includes glacier walking. The western and southern part of the peak has technically difficult routes. From the top of the Mera, you can get a panoramic 360-degree view of the mountains.

The mountain vista of Everest (8848.86 m), Lhotse (8561 m), Cho Oyu (8201 m), Makalu (8485 m), and Kanchenjunga (8586 m) is seen from the top. Besides these mountains, the scenery looks absolutely spectacular from the top.

If you are an experienced climber, you can ascend technically straightforwardly. The only thing to consider during the Mera Peak Climbing is proper acclimatization. Everyone can do climbing with very little training. In fact, it is an ideal trekking peak to start your voyage of mountaineering. No wonder, lots of people across the globe are getting to the top of the mountain. However, we recommend you prepare your mind and body before embarking on this adventure sports activity.

Zatrawala Pass Crossing

The return trip from Mera Peak Base Camp to Lukla is exciting as well. Once the trekkers reach the Kothe, they take a different route to Lukla. Climbers cross the Zatrawala Pass and reach Lukla. From the top of the pass, the cascading hills and mountain vista look amazingly fantastic. After the successful ascent of the mountain, the crossing of this pass is easy. Therefore, this route is taken only after the ascent not while heading to the base camp.

Skiing in Mera Peak

Recently, Mera Peak is also the hottest destination for skiing in Nepal. Even if the country has more than 19000 mountains, there is not even a single designated place for skiing. The terrain and the logistic difficulties are the major hurdles in operating skiing in Nepal. However, the scenario is slowly changing. The landscape of Mera Peak is identified as the perfect place for high-altitude adventurous skiing activities.

Nowadays, lots of trekking agencies have started to organize skiing adventures. All you need to do is inform the travel planners of Nepal High Trek beforehand. Thus, we will arrange all the logistics and hire the experts. Skiing is definitely an enticing adventure sports activity. Nepal has to cash in on this opportunity to introduce a new touristic activity. Sports authorities of Nepal and the Mountaineering Association have teamed up to operate the skiing in Mera Peak.

Best Season to do Mera Peak Climbing

There are two climbing windows for Mera Peak. Spring and autumn seasons are the best time to do peak climbing. Moreover, the months of Spring is the best one.

Climbing Cost of Mera Peak

The Mera Peak Climbing price ranges from 1600 USD to 2900 USD per person. It depends upon the number of climbers and the type of Sherpa crew members. The services included in the trekking to base camp also alter the climbing cost. Individual climber costs more than the cost of group climbers. Therefore, plan the Mera Peak Climb in a group.

Nepal High Trek & Expedition is the responsible trekking and climbing agency run by Sherpa and field experts. Therefore, our itinerary is advanced and updated in comparison to other agencies. Lots of our Sherpa Guides are Everest Summiteers and record holders. You are always safe while traveling with us. The success rate of the Nepal High Trek clients is high in the field of Peak Climbing. Besides Mera peak, Island Peak Climbing, Lobuche Climbing, Pokolde Peak, Baruntse, and Amadabla are the most popular climbing in the Khumbu region.

Details Itinerary

We complete our custom formalities at the Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Afterward, there is a Nepal High Trek & Expedition representative waiting for us at the gate who will take us to our hotel. We can then spend the rest of the day taking a rest. In the evening, we get to try Nepalese cuisine at a welcome dinner hosted by Nepal High Trek& Expedition. Overnight in Kathmandu.

We catch an early morning flight to Lukla and begin our trek to Paiya after landing at the Tenzing-Hillary airport in Lukla. We walk on a jungle trail, cross a bridge over the Handi Khola and reach Surke Village. From here we continue moving south and cross the Chutok La pass before reaching the small settlement of Paiyan, also known as Chutok. Overnight in Paiya.

We catch an early morning flight to Lukla and begin our trek to Paiya after landing at the Tenzing-Hillary airport in Lukla. We walk on a jungle trail, cross a bridge over the Handi Khola and reach Surke Village. From here we continue moving south and cross the Chutok La pass before reaching the small settlement of Paiyan, also known as Chutok. Overnight in Paiya.

We descend for a while and reach a small bridge. From here the trail is slippery until we cross the Kari La pass. We walk through rhododendron and bamboo forests on a narrow mountain trail. On today’s trip, we also get to be in awe of the Dudhkoshi Valley. We continue our trek to Pangkongma Village whose settlers are dependent on farming and trading. Overnight in Pangkongma.

We begin our trek after breakfast. After trekking out of Pangkongma, we cross the Pangkongma La pass. Then we ascend, walk on a steady path, pass a mani and reach Shibuche. We have lunch here. We continue our trek on a downhill path before crossing a bridge over the Hinku Khola. We pass through Gai Kharka or a grazing area and reach Nashing Dinga after a while. Overnight in Nashing Dingma.

We descend to Surkie La pass and cross it and continue walking downhill for a while. Then we begin ascending. Our trail then passes through Phokte Village, Chalem Kharka and Danda Kharka. We also pass through bamboo forests. After Danda Kharka, it is an uphill walk until we reach Panch Pokhari. Next, we walk on a zigzag path before reaching Chhatra Khola. Overnight in Chhatra Khola.

We walk towards the north on the main trail to Mera Peak. After walking on a trail next to the Majang Khola, we merge with another trail that moves alongside the Hinku Khola. Our trail moves straight ahead towards Tashing Ongma which has seasonal tea shops. We continue our trek and cross the bridge over the Sanu Khola before reaching Kothe. Overnight in Kothe.

We trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola in the shadow of Mera Peak. We take lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders’ settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung, we pass a 200-year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we can find Mera Peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. A short walk takes us to Thaknak, which is a summer grazing area with primitive lodges and shops. Overnight in Thaknak.

Leaving Thaknak, we follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers and then climbs more steeply to Khare. From here, we can see the northern face of Mera Peak which will be an amazing experience. After lunch, we can hike in and around Khare. Overnight at Khare.

We have a separate day set aside solely for acclimatization and basic training just to prepare ourselves better for the Mera Peak climb. Our climbing leader will help us polish our basic climbing techniques and demonstrate the best ways to use our climbing gears like the ice ax, harness, ascender climbing boots, and crampons. The training will also include learning the best climbing technique with the rope. Overnight in Khare.

This is a really important day for the expedition. We wake up around 2 in the morning for breakfast. It’s going to be very cold in the beginning but soon we warm up as we continue up the glacier and onto a peculiar ridge. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. The route is still non-technical as we slowly climb higher into the ever-thinning air. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may use a fixed rope if the climbing leader believes it’s required. The summit is only a few meters away. From the summit, we take in spectacular views of the mighty Himalayas including Mt. Everest (8,848m), Cho-Oyu (8,210m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Nuptse (7,855m), Chamlang (7,319m), Baruntse (7, 129m) and others. Later, we retrace our steps back to the high camp where we rest for a while before descending to Khare. Overnight in Khare.

Today is summit day and going to be a long day. You will wake up before 1 am and have your breakfast. Then the climbing starts from base camp. The climbing starts early in the morning to skip the bitter winds on the top.

You must follow your climbing guide and his instructions to the top of Mera Peak. From the top, you will be able to view Mount Everest,Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Nuptse, Amadablam, Khangtenga and Baruntse peaks with stunning Himalayas too.

After enjoying the views and summit the top of Mera, you will descend to Mera Peak Base Camp and then to Khare for an overnight stay.

There is no guarantee that we will have favorable weather on our planned day for the summit. Therefore, this day is set aside as a contingency in case we are unable to submit the Mera on the desired day due to bad weather conditions or any other unanticipated reason. However, if the trip goes smoothly, this day will not be required.

We trek from Khare to Kothe along the same trail used previously. After reaching Kothe, we celebrate our success by trying out local delicacies and wines. Overnight in Kothe.

We walk on a trail next to the Inkhu Khola. After walking a little further away from Mosom Kharka, we cross a bridge over the Inkhu Khola. Shortly, we cross another bridge over Sanu Khola. We pass through Tashing Dingma and Thuli Kharka before reaching Zatrwa La pass. We spend the night near the pass.

We cross the Zatrwa-La pass at 4,600. As soon as we cross the pass, we are welcomed by the sight of the beautiful Lukla Valley which is surrounded by Cho Oyu, Kongde Peak, Number Himal, Kusum Khangru and other Himalayan peaks. From Zatrwa La pass we walk all the way down to Chutanga and then straight to the Lukla village. In the evening we enjoy dinner in the Himalayas of Nepal with our crew. Overnight in Lukla.

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenir shopping or sightseeing. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Mera Peak. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Our adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. A representative from Nepal High Trek & Expedition will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home you’ll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal.

  • Airport pickups and drops in a private vehicle
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Welcome and farewell dinners
  • All ground transportation on a comfortable private vehicle as per the itinerary
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu- Lukla -Kathmandu)
  • English speaking, trained and experienced trekking guide(leader), climbing guide (leader) and assistant guides
  • Porter service (2 trekkers: 1 porter)
  • Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, domestic airfare, food, and accommodation
  • Down jacket and sleeping bag  (to be returned after trip completion)
  • All necessary paperwork; trekking permits and Island Peak climbing permit
  • Good quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
  • Tea or coffee during the trek
  • Group mountaineering (climbing) equipment
  • Medical kit (carried by your guide)

Cost does not include on:

  • Nepalese visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15 kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu (and also in the case of early return from mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Personal climbing guide if requested
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extended
  • Tips for guides and porters

Mera Peak Climbing Route Map

Frequently Asked Questions

Mera Peak is a moderately challenging climb that requires basic mountaineering skills, such as using crampons, ice axes, and ropes. The climb involves steep sections, glacier travel, and exposure to high altitudes, which increases the difficulty. Although it’s not as technical as some peaks in the Himalayas, it still requires good physical conditioning, mental resilience, and proper acclimatization to ensure a successful summit.

While previous climbing experience is not mandatory, it is highly recommended to have some mountaineering background. Knowledge of using crampons, ice axes, and handling rope work is essential. For those new to climbing, many trekking agencies offer training sessions on climbing techniques before the ascent. Basic mountaineering skills are crucial for safety and comfort during the climb, especially on the glacier.

The best time to climb Mera Peak is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season, from March to May, and the post-monsoon (autumn) season, from September to November. These months offer stable weather, clear skies, and lower chances of snowfall, which makes for safer and more enjoyable climbing conditions. Winter and monsoon seasons should be avoided due to harsh conditions and higher risks of avalanches and heavy snow.

A typical Mera Peak climbing itinerary lasts around 17-20 days. The journey starts with a flight to Lukla, followed by trekking through the Khumbu region to Mera Peak Base Camp. The itinerary includes acclimatization days at key points like Namche Bazaar, Kothe, and Tangnag. Climbers then make their way to High Camp before attempting the summit. After summiting, the descent follows the same route back to Lukla.

The summit day of Mera Peak usually takes 8-10 hours. Climbers depart from High Camp early in the morning, often around 2-3 a.m., to ensure they reach the summit before the afternoon weather changes. The climb involves navigating glaciers, snow slopes, and a final steep section to the summit. After reaching the summit, climbers descend back to High Camp, typically taking 4-5 hours for the return journey.

The key challenges on Mera Peak include altitude sickness, long summit days, unpredictable weather, and glacier travel. High-altitude conditions can make breathing more difficult, especially for those not properly acclimatized. The ascent also involves physical exertion, especially during the final push to the summit. Weather, including strong winds and cold temperatures, can affect the climb, so climbers must remain flexible and prepared for changes.

Essential gear for Mera Peak includes mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, a helmet, harness, ropes, and a headlamp. A high-quality sleeping bag rated for cold temperatures, trekking poles, and warm clothing are also necessary. Climbers should have layers to adjust to changing temperatures, as conditions on the mountain can vary. Many trekking agencies offer rental gear, but it’s advisable to bring your own for better comfort and safety.

Mera Peak is 6,476 meters (21,247 feet) high. Altitude sickness can occur at elevations above 3,500 meters (11,500 feet), so it’s crucial to acclimatize properly during the trek. Symptoms of altitude sickness include headaches, nausea, dizziness, and shortness of breath. To minimize risks, climbers should follow the recommended acclimatization schedule, take rest days, and avoid rushing the ascent. The guides will monitor your health and advise on necessary actions if symptoms occur.

Mera Peak Base Camp is located at around 5,300 meters (17,388 feet). It is a basic camp with tents set up in a spectacular alpine setting. There is a dining tent, shared washroom facilities, and space for climbers to rest and prepare for the summit. The camp is surrounded by snow-capped peaks, making it a beautiful and serene location. Climbers spend a night or two here for acclimatization before continuing to High Camp.

If climbers are unable to summit due to health issues, bad weather, or other factors, they can return to base camp or a lower elevation for rest. Guides will ensure safety, and descents are possible at any stage of the climb. It is important to remember that climbing Mera Peak is not just about reaching the summit, but about ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. The team’s well-being is always prioritized.

To prepare physically for Mera Peak, focus on building cardiovascular fitness and endurance through activities such as hiking, running, or cycling. Strengthen your legs, core, and upper body with weight training, as well as specific exercises like lunges and squats. Hiking with a loaded backpack will simulate the conditions of trekking. Altitude training or hiking at higher elevations can help prepare your body for the altitude stress of Mera Peak.

The success rate for summiting Mera Peak is relatively high, around 80-90%, provided climbers are properly acclimatized, prepared physically, and guided by experienced professionals. Success depends on weather conditions, the climber’s health, and the ability to handle high-altitude challenges. Following the recommended itinerary and resting sufficiently helps to reduce risks and improve chances of reaching the summit.

The cost of climbing Mera Peak typically ranges from $2,500 to $4,000 USD, depending on the trekking agency and the services included. This price usually covers permits, guides, porters, transportation, accommodation, meals, and basic gear rental. Luxury services, private guides, and extended itineraries may increase the cost. It’s important to choose a reputable agency that emphasizes safety, quality equipment, and experienced staff.

Avalanche risk on Mera Peak exists, but it is generally low compared to more technical peaks in the region. The guides assess weather and snow conditions regularly and will adjust the itinerary to avoid high-risk areas. Climbers should always follow the instructions of their guides and be aware of the potential for changing conditions in the mountains. Proper safety measures and planning help reduce the risk of avalanches.

Both these seasons are considered as the best time to climb the peak. However, the spring season especially month of May is considered as the best time to summit any types of mountains in Nepal. During this time of the year, wind is stable and there is less chance of snowfall. The snow mass on top of the mountain is stable thus reducing the risk

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