There’s no denying that Mount Everest is a place of countless dream, tragedies, and victories. Every climbing season, climbers from across the globe arrive in Nepal with hope to stand on the summit of the world’s tallest mountain, Mt. Everest. Few achieve their dream and return home with unforgettable memories. Unfortunately, some perish in the lap of the mountain and become part of Everest’s history. Today’s blog is about the tragic story of Francys Arsentiev. The sleeping beauty of Mount Everest. The stories of Green Boots and Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest are known to climbers from across the globe.
Among several tales associated with Everest climbing, few are as heartbreaking as that of Francys Arsentiev. Her story continues to inspire and aware climbers from across the globe even decades after her death in Everest. In fact, the story shouldn’t also ignore the sacrifice made by Sergei Arsentiev. We will cover authentic stories and facts about this tragic Everest expedition of Americal couple.
Who Were Francys Arsentiev & Sergei Arsentiev?
Francys Arsentiev was the first American woman to successfully reach the summit of Mount Everest without oxygen. She climbed the mountain successfully on 22nd May, 1998. Similarly, she is also the first American woman to ski down from Mount Elbrus.
Sergei Arsentiev is a fellow American climber who married Francys Arsentiev. The couple made name by climbing countless mountains across the globe. This couple had named the Peak 5800 m of Russia as the Peak Goodwill.
Both husband and wife successfully climbed Mt. Everest from northern side on 22nd May, 1998 after two failed attempts. Unfortunately, both died during their descent from the Everest expedition.
Why Is Francys Arsentiev Known as Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest?
Normally, a body of a fallen climber looks disheveled but Francys Arsentiev’s body was preserved unlike others. Her body was not harshly battered. She lay on her side dressed in her purple jacket as if she was peacefully sleeping. Near the summit of Mt. Everest, her distinct figure and posture gave her nickname of sleeping beauty of Mount Everest. Climbers started to take that as the landmark while climbing.
Later on, lots of mainstream medias started to publish the story of Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest. Moreover, her stories flourished rapidly as the sign of danger, courage, passion, and sacrifice. The name is fancy but it covers the tragic fate of talented mountain climber behind it.
What Inspired Francys Arsentiev to Climb Mount Everest?
Well, if you closely study the nature of Francys Arsentiev and activities that she did during her lifetime, you will know her better. In fact, this American woman seems passionate and adventurous. With strong determination to achieve greater things and prove to the world, she must have climbed Mount Everest. Please note down that she had failed twice before her successful climb which eventually led to her demise.

The Historic Everest Expedition of Everest’s Sleeping Beauty: What Happened During the Descent?
On 22nd May, 1998, Francys and Sergei finally reached the top of Mount Everest in late afternoon. They were climbing the mountain without supplemental oxygen. Therefore, they reached the top late than the ideal time to reach the summit of Mount Everest. After achieving such a feat, both started the descend. Lack of tent and oxygen made their descent harder. When Sergei reached the camp, he didn’t see his wife. Immediately, Sergei took supplemental oxygen and medicine went up to rescue Francys.
On the way down, Uzbek climbing team along with the British climber Woodall tried to help Francis on 24th May, 1998. The team escorted her few meters down but her condition gave up and harsh conditions of that altitude didn’t help. The Uzbek team had to abandon her and they met Sergei climbing up. Unfortunately, that was the last time they saw Sergei. Till today, his whereabout is unknown but his ice axe and rope were found near the body of Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest.
The Reality of the Death Zone in Everest Climbing Route: Why is Rescue Nearly Impossible?
The death zone in the Everest Climbing route refers to the section above 8000 m. Oxygen density is scarce and exhaustion is at its peak by the time you are in the death zone. Therefore, lots of Everest casualties happen in the death zone. It is nearly impossible to carry out rescue operations in this altitude. Even an experienced Sherpa climbers find it hard to do such activities in the area.
According to Sherpa team member who is part of the official rescue team, the condition of climber, oxygen level, fatigue, and extreme weather conditions are biggest hurdles behind rescue from death zone.
When was the body of Francys Arsentiev removed from Everest Climbing route?
Woodall joined “the Tao of Everest” expedition to remove bodies from the main Everest Climbing route in 2007. Finally, on 23rd May, 2007 after nearly a decade, the Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest, Francys Arsentiev’s body was removed and relocated to the place unseen from the main trail. The team performed short ritual and gave her proper funeral rites. Till now she remains in the lap of the mighty Mount Everest.

Green Boots in Everest: Another tragic story of Everest Climbing Route
Another world-famous story about Everest climbing is of the Green Boots. This refers to the body of an unknown climber with green boots on lying in a cave at an altitude of 8500 m. For years, lots of climbers have noticed the body. Later on, a Chinese expedition group relocated the body in 2014 and it is no longer visible.
Extraordinary Story of Dawa Sherpa: Survived 6 days in Everest alone
Recently, Nepalese Sherpa Climbing guide Dawa Sherpa survived 6 days in Everest alone. On the 7th day, Everest cleaning group found Mr. Sherpa crawling towards the base camp and rescued him. According to him, he fell into a crevasse and couldn’t get any help. Note down that the Everest climbing season is over and he was among few coming back down to the Everest Base Camp. Additionally, he survived on chocolates. The story of Dawa Sherpa is rare especially when you are in the wilderness areas of the Mount Everest Climbing route.
Nepal High Trek pays Homage to fallen Climbers of Everest
Nepal High Trek likes to pay homage to all known and unknown climbers who perished during the Everest expedition via this blog. From the story of Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest to the story of Dawa Sherpa, Everest has countless smiles, triumphs, and tragedies. We pray whole heartedly to those who lost their lives in Everest and other mountains of Nepal.

Nepal High Trek & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. 

